Who are you to say these things and dictate your view on the rest of us?

The main point here is that you don’t have to be ‘somebody’ to make a logical argument against something.

This site has been created to help people to articulate their arguments against a majority of people in favour of bolting and creating irreversible damage to our rocks.

If you have a well considered argument against our points – that has not been already addressed – do so, add it as a comment and we will go ahead and add it to a section on the website.

Abusive or non-constructive comments will be deleted.


6 responses to “About

  1. Oregon Climber

    You are not alone my friend, and don’t think that just because there is not a flood of responses to this site (yet) that there are not boltless climbing enthusiasts and that there aren’t those that oppose excessive bolting (and bolting in general).

    Trying to present a bolt-less option to climbers quickly garnishes the “elitist” stigma you mention in your diatribe, which can be quite frustrating for the points your making here. Thinking of climbing as something that has a hundreds of year continuum rather than just looking at the here and now is what it takes to believe in the kind of sustainable climbing you present on this website.

    I have made myself a fixture to a boltless crag here in Oregon for over 5 years and was starting to feel like I was on Pluto. Outside of a small group of climbers here it feels at times that no one else in the world connect climbing with anything but bolts; your site proves me wrong and reinspires me to work towards guidebook development on my particular area and put work towards furthering the bolt-less climbing movement!

    Right on!

    • Dear Oregon Climber,

      Sorry for the long delay in replying – but thank-you for your support – and perhaps glad to know that especially here in the UK there is quite a strong no-bolting ethic for crags where it is practically possible to climb traditionally.

      I can imagine it is difficult if people are eying up the crag with their drills at the ready to destroy your traditional routes – but the reality of it is that bolt climbing is only part of the full experience. Sadly they lose the fuller rewarding experience climbing can offer and pull it down to being only gymnastic ability on a vertical landscape – not quite the far wider experience you can get on top of this with trad.

      Best of luck with your trad guide book and I hope it helps to maintain the ability for future climbers to clean climb the rocks in your area!

      Climb hard! 🙂

  2. As you might have known, you struck a chord:


    So, you are a “clean” climber that is cool. I would like to say I’m a clean climber…but I clip bolts with my wife at Smith on a irregular basis. You should include the destructive nature of Pitons here. However, I think Bolts have there place…not like Boulder Canyon, but more like Squamish Apron.

    • Yes I would agree, and I had never really thought of pitons as part of clean climbing gear – and I certainly agree that pitons can be quite destructive – in fact they can change the nature of the climb when used over and over.

  3. One obvious problem with bolt-less climbing is that very many routes would be possible to lead, but likely highly dangerous. Many of us want to engage in the physical aspect of climbing without the high potential for injury (or death) that is commonly encountered in bolt-less climbing (think British grit). How do you suggest this issue should be addressed?

  4. in my country we have simple solution: we chop them

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